FRANCK MULLER V 45 SC DT LTD AC BLC Vanguard Mykonos
Franck Muller launches Skafander Tonneau diver's watch
Cintree curve of the sea.
Launched in 2018 but only recently shelved, the Skafander uses Franck Muller's signature tonneau-shaped case for a diver's watch. The Skafander takes its name from "scaphander," an old term for wetsuits, and the Skafander has been refurbished just as it came into stores in stainless steel or titanium.
initial thought
A rugged and bold watch, the Skafander is the epitome of Franck Muller's current style. At first glance, the design appears to be derivative, reminiscent of the Hublot Big Bang spirit and, of course, various Richard Mille models.
But it was Franck Muller who made the tonneau case a part of contemporary watchmaking with the Cintree Curvex — Cartier, on the other hand, invented the shape in 1906 — so the brand has all the rights to it. In fact, the Cintree Curvex was one of the "it" watches of the 1990s, and it was so successful that it could be said to be the inspiration for all tonneau watches in 21st century watchmaking.
Complicated and mechanical, the Skafander model has a partially skeletonized dial, which doesn't help with legibility, but it fits perfectly into the style of a modern sports watch.
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The Skafander stands out among watches of this type with its case shape and inner rotating bezel. And at around US$15,000 (or S$23,800), it’s relatively expensive, but not on par with comparable dive watches from Hublot.
Tonneau case, round bezel
The main function of the Skafander comes from matching a rotating bezel to a tonneau case - it's an elapsed time diver's bezel that is very complicated and can be awkward to use.
The bezel is rotated by a pair of pushers on the sides of the case: pushers at 8 advance the bezel in 1-minute increments, while upper pushers at 10 advance the bezel in larger 5-minute steps. Between the two is the "lock" button, which disengages the adjustment mechanism and prevents accidental movement of the bezel.
The Skafander is powered by the FM 2800-SK movement, essentially the venerable ETA 2892. Although ordinary, it is reliable and easy to service.
Frank Muller Skafander
Ref. SKF 46 DV SC DT
Diameter: 45.8mm x 57mm
Height: 15.6 mm
Material: Steel or Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: FM 2800-SK
Functions: hours, minutes, date and elapsed time lap
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Chain: self-winding
Power reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Rubber strap with folding clasp
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